The first blizzard of the year. If the forecast holds, sounds like that’s what’s coming. A no-travel-advised, buy-extra-groceries-and-an-extra bottle-of-whiskey two-day blow. And just in time. It’s been another too-warm deer season. We’ve been wearing flannel instead of wool and hearing loons on the lake instead of ice-making rumbles, and if there’s deer around they’re staying nocturnal. A sharp turn in the weather is just the thing to shake things up and at the very least some snow will make the woods more interesting. Hunting without snow is like fishing a muddy, blown-out river. No visibility and low confidence. Tonight, finally, the snow is coming.
The first raindrops hit the windshield about the time I hit Cloquet. By Duluth it’s sleet and twenty miles further north it’s sticking to the road. CB and Bear are at the shack already when I four-wheel into the yard and their tracks are already obscured by snow. The kitchen gas lights cast a warm glow out the window and illuminate galaxies of big, round snowflakes.
Next morning is not an early one into the woods. Instead: an extra cup of coffee, feed the woodstove, read a book at the kitchen table, watch the snow falling out the window. A foot or so of fell overnight and it’s blowing into drifts now. The cabin’s 110-year-old tamarack logs creak a bit with the heavy gusts.
But the kitchen is warm. Once more cup of coffee, weak stuff boiled too long, but seasoned just right by the smell of the birch smoke from the stove and the total absence of any kind of wireless signal. I step onto the porch and toss the dregs into the snow. Deep breath.
That wind is really picking up. Probably should have got out earlier. I step back inside and stomp the snow from my slippers and head to the back bedroom where my gear is. I dress in light layers, planning to walk, and slide the rifle with iron sights out of its sleeve. A scope in this weather is no good. Irons you can just brush the snow out of. And this rifle’s seen some snow. It’s Swedish, a Mauser ‘96, made in 1911 and lent to the Finns in 1939 when the Russians invaded. The cartridges pop into the magazine with a musical clink, a pleasing aesthetic one doesn’t get with a more modern rifle made with stamped steel and polymers.
First part of the trail cuts through a popple stand maybe thirty years old. The snow is blowing sideways and the treetops rattle skeletal. There is something about still-hunting in the snow and wind. You can’t hear anything but neither can the deer. Nor smell. In the swaying trees their motion-based eyesight is dazzled. My human predator’s eyes with their depth perception and color resolution give me a rare sensory advantage. I work through the aspens, step, step, pause, wait, look hard, step. I feel sinister. Lethal.
This trail dead-ends at a stand in an ancient black spruce that overlooks the edge of the cedar swamp. I climb up to sit for a few minutes but the swaying of the old tree in the gale is unsettling and the snow is falling quicker now. It’s about 3 but it’s already getting dark.
Halfway back some character of the wind shifts and trees begin cracking. Loudly. I’ve already been thinking about the warm cabin and supper. Now I’m thinking about widowmakers. I imagine that the odds of a tree actually falling on me are pretty small. Then again every tree eventually falls, and every square inch of forest eventually has a tree fall on it.
I hunt a little faster. When I see the deer standing off to the right of the trail I feel that familiar jolt of adrenaline and the odd dissonance between shock that deer do actually exist and the ordinary image–a deer in the woods–that’s presented.
She’s not far away, maybe thirty yards, but the alders and popples are thick here and I can’t make out more than the color and general shape of a medium-sized doe. I can see the line of her back, a frosting of snow collected there, insulated by her thick winter coat, that hollow hair that spins and flares so perfectly for streamer heads and bass bugs. She’s eating the buds off the alder branches. I have no shot. Need to get closer.
I step into the woods, off the trail, moving when her head is down and when the wind is gusting. Time is short so I am taking chances, pushing it, but the wind hides me. My heart races and my senses sharpen. This is hunting. One more step and a small hole opens in the branches. I raise the rifle and lean my left wrist against a popple trunk for a rest. But the deer has turned and she is facing away from me, head down. Sights steady but no real target. Wait. Light is fading.
And then from the hilltop behind me a thunderous crrrrack-whumph and I jump, focus jarred, turning to look automatically. A big popple must have come down.
I turn back and there’s another deer. Closer. Standing up from her bed. Snow slips from her back where it had piled as she slept. She looks right at me. I only have to shift the rifle a few inches for a clean shot. The sights have gathered some snow as I stand here but they’re clear enough and I focus on the front sight blade.
A wave of reluctance washes over me. Always does at this moment. Cold predatory instinct falters. My mind flashes excuses to not shoot. It’s almost dark. What if you have to track her in the snow? Do you really want to spend the next hour gutting and dragging? What if I miss? Will CB and Bear hear the shot and come to help drag? Is she big enough? Shouldn’t you save your tag just in case?
But I am expecting this onslaught–it has cost me in the past–and I have steeled myself against it with the thought of venison in the freezer, the memory of none last year and of buying beef and all the baggage it entails. And the obvious this is why I’m here. I catch my breath and squeeze.
The sound of the shot is swallowed by the woods and the wind and the snow. My ears do not ring.
recipe: venison heart
or, “the reason to take a neck shot.”
- Chill heart in the snow. Rinse well and butterfly, trimming all fat and vessels. Anything white.
- Slice into 3/4″ thick strips and season with cracked sea salt and pepper.
- Rest for 20-30 minutes outside or in the fridge, but don’t allow to freeze.
- Heat 1/16” of olive oil to spitting-hot in your 12″ cast iron.
- Fry meat in two batches, turning frequently. Cook time for each batch 2-3 minutes. Do not overcook.
- Add a bit of butter (and garlic if desired) to pan in the last 30 seconds of each batch and swirl the pan to baste the meat.
- Rest meat for 5 minutes before serving.
at home: serve with Minnesota wild rice and roasted carrots or rutabaga. Pair with a Bent Paddle black ale or a modest European red wine.
at camp: eat from a paper plate with your fingers while still too hot and wash down with whatever domestic light beer CB brought up.